Dining

Flying fish, more than a national dish in Barbados

By Isabelle Fontaine •

Upon arrival in Barbados, a territory

In Barbados, flying fish is more than just a national dish. This seaman, built for flight, deserves his name. When chased by predators like the royal macrelle or blue marlin, it spurs through the water, breaks the surface and slips hundreds of meters, a dramatic escape that has turned it into a symbol worldwide. But this fish does not end in the air. A small size larger than the herring, it is also a Barbadian culinary treasure: delicately salted with a sweetness that shines regardless of whether it is fried, muffled, salted or smoked.

Upon arrival in Barbados, a territory in which its image is imprinted on the national currency and presented in public art at Grantley Adams International Airport, it can feel its aura almost sacred. Barbadian chef Creig Greenidge knows the magic of this traditional pair, made up of flying fish and couscou. „Every element completes, but never competes,”he says. „I'm a cook at home before I'm a professional chef, and this is the Sunday menu I'm making for my family.”They also appreciate this species outside of home kitchens. On Friday nights, the fishing town of Oistins turns into a noisy celebration of the sea and song. At weekly fish cake, the royal macrelle, blue marlin and flying fish are cold, while guests gather around long and common meals.

The experience of eating flying fish here

The air fills with the smell of seafood sizzling on the coals, the rhythms of shock music and the whistling of cold beer Banks that are open.

The experience of eating flying fish here is one that puts you in contact with Barbadian culture in its purest form. The flying fish kitchen is also found in restaurants on the island. On a day trip on the west coast haunted by wind, you can taste cold smoked flying fish, served over a bed of greens, with fried tomatoes, grilled watermelon and cucumber. Cold fillets have the greasy richness of Castelvetrano olives, with a tint of marine salt from the Caribbean.

At The Fish Pot Restaurant, hosted in a former coastal fort, you can enjoy a pair of flying fish pâté, crowned with fried fillets, all glistening with a sriracha mayonnaise cough and mango citrin pearls. This dish gives national speciality an unexpected altitude and elegance, in a light frame, with sand under its feet. Barbadians take special measures when cooking with flying fish, Greenidge notes. „There is always balance, attention and joy.”Unfortunately, the species is less abundant than in the past, according to marine biologists.